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mail: Bill Thayer 
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Wed. 21 September

9:15 and sitting down to what's becoming my usual breakfast of biscottes, fruit, yogurt, coffee — with the addition today of some sausage. Woke up over an hour ago, a bit sleepy [. . .]

12:15, dismal totally overcast day and I'm feeling (a) sleepy and lethargic from being up at all hours last night (b) nervous and cabin-feverish. [. . .]


P.M. and bedtime although I've spent much of the day in bed; immediately after the last weepy entry, I went to sleep — the three-hour siesta after lunch seems to be turning into a habit — woke up at 4:15, finally showered shaved and dressed, went out for a small and aimless walk, to get me out of the apartment mostly, the excuse being I needed two napkins and a towel for my skates rather than tear up Ms. Galletti's on my blades — in fact I wandered around and somehow wound up on the parvis of S. Fortunato, so I went in and prayed, cannot remember exactly what, my mind blanked out a bit (that's fine as long as the good Lord remembers!) but I do remember stopping one train of thought and thanking God instead for what I have, which is a lot. After that, I wandered in to a little ceramics shop on the side of the hill 50 yards away and had a long conversation with the woman tending it, maybe half an hour — then a spot of shopping (the napkins and the towels) followed by a slice of pizza at the tavola calda across from the little dolphin, then a tiny spot of grocery shopping, young couple ahead of me, Irish, had five words of Italian, are staying in Perugia for another ten days, they like thermal baths, went to Sangemini and Acquasparta today but were disappointed because those are just drinking spas: but they found out that Città di Castello has hot baths — useful information, after all ever since my first hot baths at Paipa last year, it's now in the mental notebook, that was extremely pleasant.

Back to apartment, where I noted the Galletti family has put my name on a mailbox in the courtyard (I'd provided Mrs. Galletti's daughter with a xerox of my passport, she went to the questura and now I'm legal) — They take care of me: I was expecting to have to stick my name up myself.

Inasmuch as I was awake, the day was cool and overcast except at around 4:30 for maybe fifteen minutes, bright warm sun — I opened the bedroom window and lay still on the bed to try to get some tan — Tanning is dull —

In all this, no lunch, no real dinner: the latter was four glasses of pineapple juice and a bit of ricotta with the red stuff (Alchermes di Firenze, 18° — about a teaspoon used) [. . .]

Forgot to record yesterday that I did some of those odd little steps where you skate forward but walk backward while you're doing it: they're much improved.

So, one more day down the hatch — deep night, window open but not as cool as previous night — smell of wood smoke quite definite — opera from someone's house (sono in Italia qui, o no?) — tomorrow will be skating day. Keep the morale up [. . .]


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Page updated: 14 Oct 06