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In September 1998, I was living in the Italian town of Spello and walking around central Umbria with occasional small train trips outside Umbria, to Rome and elsewhere.

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The more interesting entries are on darker backgrounds.
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Flu, domesticity.
Urvinum Hortense and Collemancio; a folk etymology.
Rome: I start to do my tour of the Aurelian Walls; a visit to the Colosseum.
September 4
— Diary not kept —
A Roman parade in Spello, with yours truly as Julius Caesar. . . .
September 6
— Diary not kept —
Tuoro sul Trasimeno; the vandalized Chiesa Tonda near Spello; more Julius Caesar.
Spoleto: S. Pietro; the Roman theatre.
September 9
— Diary not kept —
Rome: the Palazzo Barberini, the Pantheon, ice skating on a crowded rink; I try a McDonald's.
A 9 km walk in the comuni of Trevi and Campello sul Clitunno.
The sources of the Clitumnus. I walk in the Marche region from S. Vittorio delle Chiuse (a beauti­ful Byzantine Romanesque church in the comune of Genga) to Sassoferrato. Rome: the Capitoline Museums.
September 13‑15
— Diary not kept —
Musei Capitolini, continued; skating in Marino. A day of rural Roman investigations: including the aqueduct of Spello, where three of us get thoroughly drenched.
More rural Roman investigations: Fiamenga and Budino. Conversation with a mynah bird.
At Amelia, I discover some archaeology buffs who show me around the Roman river port of Seripola.
Amelia, continued: my new friends take me to fields full of ancient pottery. The polygonal walls of Amelia, and I meet lots of people. Back in Spello, I briefly attend a conference on Roman law. Rome: Trajan's Column and a very disappointing visit of the Forum. Skating in Marino.
Nothing much.
September 21
— Diary not kept —
Todi and my film developers. The end of an era: a good restaurant bites the dust.
A walk in the country: Fossato di Vico, Sigillo, Scirca, Costacciaro, three Roman bridges. So much to see that I only do half my expected mileage, and stay at a just opened agriturismo near Costacciaro.
A lesson in how not to make money. The other half of my walk: to Scheggia and Gubbio.
I visit Nocera Umbra, now reduced to a ghost town after the 1997 earthquake.
September 26
— Diary not kept —
Etruscan stuff in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Perugia. Back to Nocera Umbra for a concert with Katia Ricciarelli to mark the 1st anniversary of the earthquake.
September 28‑29
— Diary not kept —
A 47 km walk from Spello to Todi: Gaglioli, Gualdo Cattaneo, and some spectacular landscape under equally spectacular weather.


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Page updated: 7 Dec 20