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The exterior of this church, austere and even homely, and sharply divided into a Romanesque and a Renaissance zone, doesn't prepare us at all for this: classic 18c lines and a spritz of floral rococo. Here for example is the stuccoed vault of the 2d chapel on the S side of the church, to the visitor's right:
The ten chapels, five to a side down the nave, do contain things of beauty, however; of them the painting shown here, in the 5th chapel on the S side, was my favorite (see also this pulled-back view of it in its 18c setting). It depicts St. Francis of Assisi — notice the nail-holes of the stigmata in his hands and feet — surrounded by vignettes that tell the story of his life: among them for example, to his right, his meetings with the Pope, that eventually led to the recognition of his Rule and the official foundation of the Franciscan Order.
It wouldn't be St. Francis of course without the miracle of the birds (lower left corner); might as well see it a bit larger:
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Page updated: 26 Jul 04