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Saturday 29 August 1998

Well apparently I've got some kind of low-level 'flu, a bit of a fever, etc. I didn't go to sleep again this morning until past 3 for sure, and must've woken up around 11? Been feeling feverish and aching joints etc., not even hungry — walked down to the Sidis to try to find a cheap clock (no dice), the walk back up with one small bag of stuff (napkins, small gasses, toilet paper) was tough, sweating easily despite an absolutely perfect day: 70F, bright blue sky, and a nice breeze. Infuriating being a hostage to something as dumb as a very mild 'flu — been doping myself with strong tea and honey and do in fact feel better. Anyway no Rimini today; maybe tomorrow then, although I always feel uncertain about traveling Sundays because the train schedules are always a bit awry —

A bit past 7:30, feeling much better. A few minutes and 2 large cups — bowls, really — of tea after the above, I said the heck with it and headed off somewhere; I wound up taking the missing photos I needed of the Cappella Tega, then down to the Consolare and around to where I was yesterday, now that I had a blue sky, to get good general views of town from the west; then followed the highway back to the exit and back up, stopping to get a little red alarm clock for ₤16,000 batteries included. The churches open this year as part of Viviamo are fewer, due to last year's quake, but also two are different: S. Ercolano (yesterday) and S. Filippo/Rufino, where I found myself looking at Luanna — she's the guide there. [A large square pillar and a semi-excavated stone basement showing traces of what may once have been something. It is the best available photo of the scant remains of the former church of S. Filippo (or S. Rufino) in Spello (Umbria).] Like S. Ercolano it's unimpressive: a few brick vaults and some dusty large stones. Of course the larger, the more likely to be old: and Luanna says that a bunch of "speleologi" were in fact able to crawl around under the p.zza della Repubblica full circle, about 2½ m below the surface although the passageways were choked with débris — no one yet really knows where the upper forum was, and I bet there was one — it is puzzling that not a trace has yet been found of the preëxisting Umbrian town, unlike so many other places where we have the Umbrian or Etruscan walls. . . .

Well I've had dinner — rotini with olive oil and parmesan, half a glass of rosato d'Assisi — not too healthy but at least I wuz hungry, and I'm sleepy at the normal time. Tomorrow Rimini?

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