Tour to the Western Country

[310]  p339  Vol. IV
p339 Chapter LIII
Baton Rouge — Gumbo — An Irish-French-Spaniard — The governour — Mrs. O'Brien's — Journey on return — An American camp — Extensive prospect — Tomlinson's.

Arriving at Baton Rouge, on enquiry I was informed that Madame Le Gendre's was the [311]most respectable auberge, I accordingly stopt there, and found a number of genteel men, Frenchmen, Spaniards, English and Americans, with about a dozen of whom I sat down to supper, quite a la Francaise.The table was well covered with different made dishes, and a variety of vegetables, among which the most conspicuous, was a large dish of gumbo, served by the hostess at the head, which seemed to be a standing dish, and much in repute, as almost every one was helped to it. It is made by boiling ocroc until it is tender, and seasoning it with a little bit of fat bacon. It then becomes  p340 so ropy and slimy as to make it difficult with either knife, spoon or fork, to carry it to the mouth, without the plate and mouth being connected by a long string, so that it is a most awkward dish to a stranger, who besides, seldom relishes it, but it is a standing dish among the French creoles, as much as soup and bouilli is in France, or the olla in Spain.

A bed was prepared for me in the front gallery or piazza, where Madame Le Gendre assured me I should be less troubled with musquitoes than in the interior of the house, and that I should also find it more cool and agreeable. I mention this as a trait of French character, particularly the female, to make a virtue of necessity, and to turn even their inconveniences to advantage, for notwithstanding her assertion that it was solely pour l'accommodation de Mons. l'Etranger, had there been any other place for a bed in her small house, one would not have been prepared for me in the gallery. The musquitoes were sufficiently ennuyants to make me rejoice at perceiving the first dawn of day, when I hurried on my clothes, and sallied out to view the seat of government of the western division of West Florida.216

About half a dozen tolerably good frame (or wooden) houses scattered on an extensive plain surrounded on three sides by woods at a little distance, first [312]made their appearance, while a dirty little town of 60 cabins crouded together in a narrow street on the river bank, penned in between the Mississippi and a low steep hill descending from  p341 the plain, filled up the fourth side. I walked through the village — it is a right French one — almost every other house being a petty shop for the sale of bread, tobacco, pumpkins and taffia (or bad rum) distilled at the sugar plantations a little lower down the river. It is matter of astonishment how so many shops of the same kind find customers. I observed two tolerably well assorted stores, one kept by a Frenchman, the other by Mr. Egan, an Irishman, to whom I carried an introductory letter from Mr. O'Connor, which ensured me a friendly and hospitable welcome.

I breakfasted with him, and then went to view the fort on the plain above the north end of the town. It is a regular square with four small bastions at the angles. The ramparts are composed of earth thrown up out of a small dry ditch or fosse which surrounds it, and are crowned by a stoccade of pickets. A few small guns mounted, point to the different approaches, and also command the river, but it is a work of very little strength, and not capable of much defence against a prepared enemy.

I returned to my friend Egan's, who accompanied me to the house of Don Gilbert Leonard, the contador (or collector) to whom I had letters of introduction. The affectation of importance which this gentleman attached to his offer of accompanying me to government house, as soon as his excellency the governour should be visible, was matter of amusement to me, who had been accustomed to see less ceremony observed in introductions to men of infinitely greater importance. He excused himself from asking me to dine with him, as he said his family were all indisposed, but any other time that I should be in Baton Rouge, he hoped to have that pleasure. He promised [313]to call on me about eleven o'clock at Mr. Egan's, as soon as he had made himself up for a visit to the governour, and he  p342 begged leave to retire to dress, although the changing of a silk morning or dressing gown for a coat, was all that was necessary, he having evidently bestowed some time on his person just before our arrival.

During the short time we remained at his house, Don Gilbert led the discourse to the politicks of the day, reprobating in most warm terms, the folly of the Spaniards for endeavouring to emancipate themselves from the chains of Napoleon — ascribing it to their being instigated to it by the artifices of that enemy of mankind Britain, to which country he declared himself a sworn enemy. It is worthy of remark, that all this opinionated and ill informed self consequence, proceeded from a son of Irish parents, who had arisen to his present station in a Spanish provincial government, from an obscure situation in life, by a chain of fortuitous circumstances. As he had volunteered himself to be my Ciceroni to the governour, I awaited him at Mr. Egan's some time later than the appointed hour, which tardiness was of course to give the visit additional consequence. We at last proceeded together, and not finding the governour at home, I told him, I would put him to no farther trouble, but would myself wait upon his excellency on his return from his promenade. — He made his bow, and I was again a free man.

About one o'clock, I found the governour, Don Carlos de Grandpré at home. He gave me a polite reception, and while his written permission to remain six months in the country (a ceremony all strangers are obliged to go through, previous to making a permanent settlement) was preparing, he entered into a conversation on agricultural topicks, and appeared to be a well informed, and well bred man. He avoided touching on politicks, but Don Gilbert's sentiments on [314]that subject are supposed to be his, he being a native of France, and of course naturally partial to his  p343 country, whether ruled by a Capet, by a mob, or by a Napoleon.217

After a friendly and unceremonious dinner with Mr. Egan, I left Baton Rouge on my return, not having any curiosity to explore any more of the country than I had hitherto seen, the cream of which I considered to be the Bayau Sarah settlements.

Returning again through Montesano, I arrived at Mrs. O'Brien's a little before dark. It being too late to proceed any farther that night, I stopped and requested room for myself and horse until morning. My request was complied with according to the general custom of the country, but in such polite terms, and it introduced me to so agreeable a society at supper, that I congratulated myself for not having had time to go farther. The family consisted of Mrs. O'Brien herself, and her daughters Mrs. Flood, wife of doctor Flood of New Orleans, Mrs. Saunders, and Miss O'Brien. Two gentlemen from Orleans joined us after supper, which was an additional motive for self-congratulation. As they were travelling my road. They as well as me were strangers to Mrs. O'B.

It is impossible to travel in any part of this new country after dark, as the roads are only bridle paths, which are so  p344 darkened by the woods through which they lead, that the adventurous traveller must inevitably lose himself.

On Thursday, 8th September, I proceeded with my two companions before the family were stirring, and we arrived at Mr. Duwal's on the Great Prairie, time enough to sit down with the family to breakfast. We afterwards stopped to bait at Mr. Carters, and then went on cross Thompson's creek to Mr. Perry's, where we found Messrs. Duncan and Gamble, lawyers from New Orleans, at dinner. Chairs were placed for us of course, and after partaking of Mr. Perry's hospitable [315]meal, I went on to doctor Flowers's — separating from my companions, who had each different friends to visit in that part of the country.

Next day, the 9th September, I went to Capt. Percy's to dinner, and spent the remainder of that day and night there, and on the 10th, after dining at Mr. O'Connor's I retraced my journey across the line into the Mississippi Territory, and passing through Pinckneyville, I entered Capt. Semple's plantation, and rode nearly two miles through it before I came to the house of the proprietor — passing in the way two different negro quarters, and the whole road resembling several I have known through the demesnes of the nobility in Europe, in its variety — through woods, lawns, pastures and cultivated fields, on the whole the most beautiful plantation to ride through of any I had hitherto seen in this western country.

I had to regret the absence of my hospitable host and hostess, who were on a visit at Mrs. Trumbull's, Mrs. Semple's mother. I was however well taken care of — and proceeding next morning, I deviated a little from the road to visit the camp. As I approached it I met several negroes returning home from a market which is kept there every Sunday morning. On my arrival I was much surprised with a village, differing from any I had ever before seen.

 p345  Twenty-four large huts faced a wide open space cleared for a parade, in front of which is held the market. In the rear of these, with a narrow street between, are ten very snug and well furnished cottages, appropriated for the officers, who reside in them, some with their families, and some en garçon. But the most remarkable circumstance is that the whole camp is constructed with cane (the large reed) in such a manner as to render every dwelling perfectly tight and warm. They are all floored with plank, and the officers' quarters are glazed, and have each a little [316]garden; and there runs through the whole an air of neatness, propriety, and cleanliness, that I have seldom seen surpassed. The situation is on the slope of a very high hill, and the whole country for some miles round, particularly towards the Mississippi, is nothing but a continuation of steep and broken hills, covered with forest timber, and an impenetrable cane brake, except in a few places, where some adventurous settler has found a small spot, not too steep for the plough, or where narrow paths of communication have been cut through the canes.

Having gratified my curiosity with a view of this little encampment, I went on to Wilkinsonburg, and spent the rest of the day with my friend H–––––. On Monday, the 12th September, proceeding at early dawn, I took a wrong trace about five miles from Fort Adams, by which I was taken •two or three miles out of my road, but coming to a plantation, I had some compensation made me for my egarement, by receiving directions for another road to Buffaloe creek, by which I cut off five miles, with the additional satisfaction of having only eight miles without a house, instead of twelve by the main road. I had hills on my right hand, covered with the usual variety of forest trees, and a thick cane brake underneath, while on my left, a gloomy and malignant swamp extended to the  p346 Mississippi, some miles distant. I breakfasted at Smith's who keeps a tavern, and a ferry over Buffaloe creek, •three miles below the toll bridge on the other road. I had three short miles of a bad and miry road to Ellis's plantation, and four from thence along a ridge to major Davis's, where I again came into the main road. A mile farther brought me to Big Jude's, a free negro woman, settled on one side of a broken plain, which seems to have been a plantation at some distant period back, but by the washing away of the soil, it now only affords nourishment to a short herbage, [317]seemingly very proper for sheep. From hence is a very extensive view over the surrounding forests — in which far to the westward may be seen a line formed by the Mississippi, making a great curve that way. Ellis's heights and the chain of hills running from thence to the eastward of Natchez terminate the view to the northward, while Loftus's heights do the same to the southward. Extensive prospects occur so rarely in this country of forests, that when a traveller happens to meet with one, he feels wonderfully cheered, although he sees nothing but a horizon of woods, which, particularly when without their leaf, in the winter season, have a very sombre and gloomy appearance, a little inequality of horizon where a hill happens to bound the view, being the only variety; but after emerging from the thick forests and cane brakes, in which he has been long buried, he feels an expansion of the whole system which is extremely pleasing.

The road is hilly but good, through a pleasant wood, chiefly of that superb tree the magnolia or American laurel, clear of underwood and cane, and passing several small plantations •four or five miles from Jude's to the Homochito. Being ferried across that charming little river, I had a good road through a pleasant country tolerably well settled five miles to Mr. Tomlinson's. I had a letter to him from  p347 my friend H–––––, which was no sooner delivered, than both he and Mrs. T. vied with each other in their friendly attentions to me. They insisted on my not going farther that night, and manifested the greatest friendship for the writer of my introductory letter, by the warmth and kindness of their hospitality to me.

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The Editor's Notes:

216 The name Baton Rouge (Red Stick) is supposed to have been derived from a tall cypress tree, which, having been stripped by the lightning to its red wood, formed a prominent landmark. The town was first settled by the French about 1720, but remained an inconsiderable hamlet, even after the accession of eighty Acadians (about 1730). The British, while in control of West Florida, built a fort and established a garrison here, which was surrendered by Colonel Dickson to the victorious Spanish under Galvez, in 1779. Baton Rouge was incorporated as an American town in 1817, and became the capital of Louisiana in 1850.— Ed.

217 Don Carlos de Grandpré was a Frenchman, who held important positions in the Spanish service. In 1779, he aided Galvez in his capture of British Florida, and was left by the latter in command of the fort at Baton Rouge. In 1788, he commanded the Natchez district, but made himself unpopular to the American inhabitants, whereupon he was superseded by Gayoso de Lemos. Upon the latter's promotion to the governor­ship of Louisiana, Grandpré was again detailed for Natchez; but on account of the protests of the inhabitants, was removed in favor of Minor. When Louisiana was transferred to the United States, Grandpré was commandant at Baton Rouge. The American inhabitants of this district began a revolt, which Grandpré severely repressed. Upon the successful revolt of the same province in 1810, a son of the commandant was killed while defending the post of Baton Rouge. During the British advance against New Orleans, Grandpré sided with his former enemies, and boarded one of their warships. His later history is unknown.— Ed.

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