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Wondrous Angkor
by
Deane Dickason


[MissingALT]

Elephants at Royal Portico, Angkor Wat⁠a

The Author and the Book

Deane Henry Dickason was born June 23, 1898 in the tiny hamlet of Granada, Colorado (USA). He graduated from the University of Colorado at Boulder in 1920, where he was already exercising his talents as what we might call a voiceover man: he would go on to become primarily known as a producer and narrator of travel films, although he also worked from time to time as a lecturer on the occasional cruise ship. As far as I know, Wondrous Angkor is the only book he ever wrote.

Most of the places about which he made his movies, some of them in collaboration with his first wife Sarah Crawford Rorer, are in the Far East and the Pacific, a part of the world he fell in love with in his early thirties. He had made a name for himself with the almost chastely prurient Virgins of Bali (1932), and after that many other such short subjects followed, usually with an eye to young native women, if not quite as overtly; politically his scripts often breathed a tone of benevolent colonial paternalism.⁠b Nine of his travelogues in the "Port O'Call" series can be found on The Travel Film Archive and on YouTube, and at least one more travelogue, Children of the Nile, can be viewed at Archive.Org. One of these, narrated by Dickason himself as most or maybe all of them were, is Jungle Bound: Angkor, Cambodia (available at Angkor Database and at Travel Film Archive — each, unfortunately, cut off at 9′21″, although the movie apparently didn't run much past that, only about 10 minutes total). Readers of our book will recognize snippets of the prose, and some of the photographs in the book are still frames from the movie.

Deane Dickason died in Hong Kong on November 12, 1953, of a fall off a wall; as reported on p32 of the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Dec. 9 of that year, witnesses told the jury at the coroner's inquest that he had complained of feeling ill and weak, and that while he was standing on a wall preparing to take some pictures, he suddenly keeled over. Despite what we can read in various places online, it was not a high wall but only about four feet tall; yet it was enough to kill him. He is buried in Colma, CA.

As you might expect from the foregoing, Wondrous Angkor is not a scholar­ly work; but it's much better than the author's movies would have one fear. He knew the monuments first‑hand, did his homework, and considering especially the time in which he wrote when Angkor was still almost unknown and pretty hard to get to, produced a very useful guidebook to the ancient site's monuments, history, and art. The occasional patch of purplish prose, merci­fully brief, and his vagueness and enthusiasm when some of us might wish for a bit more precision — but these are just quibbles on my part. He has given us something readable, informative, reasonably thorough, and profusely illustrated; an interesting book.

Contents

Preface

i

To Reach Angkor

v

Hotels at Angkor

vi

Leaving Angkor

ix

[Introduction]

1

Legendary History

6

Factual History

7

Kings of Angkor

12

Tcheou-Ta-Kwan

14

Khmer Architecture

25

Khmer Religions

33

Angkor Wat

45

West Gallery

56

Pavilion (Southwest Corner)

60

South Gallery (West Wing)

61

South Gallery (East Wing)

65

East Gallery (South Wing)

67

East Gallery (North Wing)

68

North Gallery (East Wing)

71

North Gallery (West Wing)

75

Pavilion (Northwest Corner)

76

West Gallery (North Wing)

81

"King of Angkor"

88

Angkor Thom

89

The South Gate

93

The Bayon

94

South Gallery (East Wing)

98

East Gallery (South Wing)

99

East Gallery (North Wing)

99

North Gallery (East Wing)

100

North Gallery (West Wing)

100

West Gallery (North Wing)

103

West Gallery (South Wing)

103

South Gallery (West Wing)

104

The Veal

108

The Royal City

110

The Baphuon

110

The Royal Palace

113

Terrace of the Leper King

117

Tep Pranam

118

Prah Palilai

118

Prah Pithu

121

Grand Circuit

122

Prah Khan

122

Neak Pean

126

Ta Som

129

Eastern Mebon

129

Pre Rup

130

Sra Srang

135

Minor Circuit

135

Ta Keo

136

Ta Prohm

139

Banteai Kedei

145

Banteai Srei

149

Pronunciations

155

Kings of Angkor

156

Chronology

157

 p. xiii  List of Illustrations

Elephants at Royal Portico, Angkor Wat

Frontispiece

Bicycle-Ricksha, Grand Hôtel d'Angkor, Siemreap

facing page vi

Grand Hotel d'Angkor

ix

Angkor Wat (from southwest)

2

Naga (seven-headed cobra) Balustrades of Causeway to Angkor Wat

5

Modern Dancing and Wrestling on Causeway at Angkor Wat

8

Modern Cambodians at Siemreap

11

Elephant Terrace, Angkor Thom

14

Narasingh (guardian lion) and Cambodian Buddhist Bonze before Royal Portico, Angkor Wat

17

Narasingh (guardian lion) and Naga (seven-headed cobra), East (Main) Entrance to The Bayon

18

Throne Terrace from The Veal

21

Royal Portico and Angkor Wat (from west side of moat)

22

South Gate, Angkor Thom

25

Angkor Wat (From colony of Cambodian Buddhist Bonzes)

28

Dwelling of Cambodian Buddhist Bonzes, Angkor Wat

31

Angkor Wat from middle of causeway

34

Statue of the Buddha (Sakya-Muni), Angkor Wat

37

Bas-relief on second floor, Angkor Wat

38

 p. xiv  Cambodian Buddhist Bonzes, Angkor Wat

41

Steep steps, Angkor Wat

42

Bas-reliefs, Angkor Wat

45

Ruins of Prah Khan (note frieze over lintel)

46

Cambodian Dancers (on causeway to Angkor Wat)

49

Cambodian Dancer, Angkor Wat

50

South Gate, Angkor Thom

53

The Bayon (with 51 four-faced towers), Angkor Thom

56

Four Faces of Lokesvara (One of fifty-one towers of the Bayon)

59

Cham soldiery in strange headgear resembling upturned flower pots. Bas-reliefs in South Gallery, The Bayon

62

Khmer soldiery in bas-relief, South Gallery, The Bayon

65

Bas-reliefs, The Bayon (note the "head-hunter" — for lice)

68

Garuda Terrace, Royal Palace, Angkor Thom

71

Relative size of one of the small towers (Four Faces of Lokesvara) The Bayon

72

Four Faces of Lokesvara, Towers of The Bayon

75

The Baphuon, Angkor Thom

78

Prasat Suor Prat, or "Towers of the Rope Dancers" The Veal, Angkor Thom

81

Modern Apsara, Angkor Wat

84

"King of Angkor"

87
 p. xv 

Lokesvara and Three-headed Elephants, Neak Pean

97

Phiméanakas, Royal Palace, Angkor Thom

100

The Leper King (an ascetic Siva) Angkor Thom

103

Double Terrace of the Leper King

104

White Buddha of the Bayon (found 1935)

107

Thirteen-foot Buddha at Tep Pranam

110

Naga Balustrade, North Entrance to Prah Khan

113

Double Walls of the Leper Terrace

118

"From the top of its galleries rise the inevitable fromagers which by some odd inconsistency now hold together what they once pried apart." Prah Khan

121

Tympanum of Apsaras (celestial nymphs) Prah Khan

122

Only round pillars in all of Angkor, Prah Khan

125

Neak Pean (restored 1938)

126

Elephant, East Mebon

130

Pre Rup (Crematorium)

132

Pre Rup (Crematorium) "Curious rectangular depression resembling a sarcophagus"

135

Ta Keo

136

Modern Cambodian in Ta Prohm

139

Within Ta Prohm

142

Main Monastery at Banteai Kedei

145

Banteai Srei: An Exquisite Architectural Gem

146

Banteai Srei's Incredible Prodigality of Lavish Ornamentation

149

 p. xvi  Maps

Routes to Angkor

xvii

Plan of Angkor

xviii

The Royal City of Angkor Thom

91

Plan of The Bayon

92

Plan of Angkor Wat

151

Plan of Prah Khan

152

Plan of Ta Prohm

153
[decorative delimiter]

Technical Details

Edition, Copyright

The book transcribed here is my own copy of the revised second edition (1939), published by a British house based in Singapore and Hong Kong, which printed it in Shanghai.

The copyright situation is complicated. The author was an American national, the publisher was British, the place of publication was the International Settlement of Shanghai in China.

If the copyright is governed by British law, the author died in 1953, so the copyright lapsed seventy years after his death, and the book has been in the public domain since January 1, 2024.

If the copyright is governed by Chinese law — noting that although in some matters the International Settlement of Shanghai was ruled by its own laws, it was still sovereign Chinese territory — until the adoption of a new statute in 1999, copyright lapsed a mere 30 years after the author's death: thus putting Wondrous Angkor in the public domain in China on January 1, 1984.

If, finally, the copyright is governed by American law, the English-language book was published without a proper copyright notice (it is marked only "All Rights Reserved"), and in any case no American copyright in it was renewed before 1968 when required by the law in force at the time: so at the latest, in the United States the book rose into the public domain on January 1, 1969. This wasn't the end of the story, however: a new copyright law took effect in the United States in 1978, by which the copyright on books like this one — published outside the United States without compliance with U. S. formalities — might be restored; provided they were not in the public domain in their source country as of January 1, 1996. But such was not the case for Wondrous Angkor: as we saw under Chinese law, in China it was in the public domain in 1984, and therefore the book has remained firmly in the public domain in the United States as well. Details here on the U. S. copyright law involved.

Pronunciations

In the printed book, a page of rudimentary pronunciations is given in the appendices at the end, on p155. I reproduce it here:

Angkor Wat Ong'kore Waht (almost Vaht)
Banteai Kedei Bahn-tay-eye Kayday'ee
Banteai Srei Bahn-tay-eye Sray
Baphuon Bah pwone
Barai Bah-rye'
Bayon Bah-yone'
Khmer K-mare'
Kleang Klay'ahng
Mebon May'bone
Mekong May'kong
Menam May'nahm
Palilai Pah'lee-lie
Phiméanakas Fim-aye'ahn-a-kas
Phnom Bakheng Nome Bah-keng
Phnom Penh Nome-Pen
Pranam Prah'nahm
Pre Rup Pray Roop
Prah Khan Prah Kahn
Neak Pean Nay'ahk Pahn
Siemreap See'em-rep'
Ta Keo Tah Kay'oh
Ta Prohm Tah Prome
Ta Som Tah Sohm
Thai Tie
Veal Vay'ahl

Pagination and Local Links, Illustrations

For citation and indexing purposes, the pagination is shown in the right margin of the text at the page turns (like at the end of this line); p57  these are also local anchors. Sticklers for total accuracy will of course find the anchor at its exact place in the sourcecode.

In addition, I've inserted a number of other local anchors: whatever links might be required to accommodate the author's own cross-references, as well as a few others for my own purposes. If in turn you have a website and would like to target a link to some specific passage of the text, please let me know: I'll be glad to insert a local anchor there as well.

The illustrations each occupy their own page, and are placed somewhat more for the publisher's convenience than strict connection with the text near them. I've moved most of them, often quite far from their placement in the printed book, to places in the text where they seemed to me most useful.

Proofreading

As almost always, I retyped the text by hand rather than scanning it — not only to minimize errors prior to proofreading, but as an opportunity for me to become intimately familiar with the work, an exercise I heartily recommend: Qui scribit, bis legit. (Well-meaning attempts to get me to scan text, if success­ful, would merely turn me into some kind of machine: gambit declined.)

My transcription has been minutely proofread. In the table of contents above, the sections are shown on blue backgrounds, indicating that I believe the text of them to be completely errorfree. As elsewhere onsite, the header bar at the top of each section's webpage will remind you with the same color scheme.

The printed book was well proofread — the inevitable few errors I found were all trivial and I corrected them with a dotted underscore like this: as elsewhere on my site, glide your cursor over the bullet or the underscored words to read what was actually printed. underscored measurements provide conversions to metric, e.g., 10 miles.

A number of odd spellings, curious turns of phrase, etc. have been marked <!‑‑ sic  in the sourcecode, just to confirm that they were checked.

Any mistakes are therefore almost certainly my own: if you find one then, please drop me a line; especially if you're looking at a printed copy of the book in front of you.


Notes:

a The woman standing on the elephant appears again in the photo on p73, wearing the same hat. She looks very much like the author's wife, Sarah Rorer: a photograph of the couple can be found at Angkor Database.

[decorative delimiter]

b One of the less happy evidences of Dickason's attitude can be found on p8, where he writes that "the modern Cambodian is almost a savage"; one really wonders where people get off saying such things, or even thinking them. Yet the following sensitively chosen photograph of his, with its caption, is printed on p10 in the same chapter:

 (p10)  
[MissingALT]

Modern Cambodians at Siemreap



[MissingALT. It is a view of Angkor Wat; the image serves as the icon on this site for Wondrous Angkor by Deane Dickason.]

The icon I use to indicate this subsite is a cropped version of the black-and‑white photograph of Angkor Wat on p35, colorized to the colors of the flag of Cambodia.


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