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The Gothic church of S. Domenico in Foligno, built in 1251, is in many ways typical of central Italy: its attractive ground story of smooth squared blocks of pink and white Subasio limestone; its unfinished upper story, courses of rough masonry waiting to be similarly veneered, when the money ran out; its second thoughts as to where to put the rose window: the newer rose is not pretty, but it's in the better place.
But the building is also typical in a subtler way. (Well, it's closed, as it has been every time I've seen it — so no photos of the interior on my site — but that's not what I mean.) It's so nondescript that we might be tempted just to walk on by. Yet here is where we're rewarded for looking a bit more carefully, for example at the door:
Closer:
Closer still:
This lion is all by himself, nestled in his bower of acanthus: the right side of the door is uninhabited. Would we really want to have missed him?
It also pays to walk around buildings and look at the back. Sometimes we'll get an instant insight into how the church is built, like at S. Maria in Ponte; and then sometimes just a detail, like this attractive 18c archway connecting the church with the rectory on the right. The oeil-de‑boeuf windows flanking the pedimented niche are particularly good:
Moving closer once again, we can of course see the tiles that make up the Crucifixion, set in Foligno against its Apennine backdrop; but we can also read the inscriptions:
IHS, the monogram of the Savior, in the pediment; just below that, Ave Redemptor: Hail, Redeemer; and less conspicuously, under the niche, the date: Anno JUBilaei MCMXXXIII XI — In the Jubilee year 1933, Year XI of the Fasces. The new era of Fascism was eleven years in, and was widely felt to represent the way things were going to be; so the visitor will see dates given this way on all kinds of buildings, even on tombstones: there is no particular message, no adhesion necessarily to the then ruling ideology, and no need finally to remove the witness to mid‑20c history. |
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Page updated: 30 Apr 09