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The striking aspect of the church is in large part due to the raised choir, characteristic of the Lombard style. Although the Lombard plan is common enough in Umbria, S. Felice's choir is raised particularly high. |
The Romanesque abbey of S. Felice, about 2½ km N of Giano, is one of the dozen or so best large churches in Umbria and the most important monument in the comune; and is set in one of the most beautiful landscapes in Umbria, which says a lot.
It is said to have been founded in the early 4c as a martyrium, i.e., a church over the tomb of the martyred bishop St. Felix of Martana. The small church became a monastery at some point during the 6c‑7c, and the monastery, like many others throughout Europe, became Benedictine, probably in the 8c‑9c.
You should not confuse this abbey of S. Felice di Giano with the equally beautiful Umbrian abbey of S. Felice di Narco, about 30 km southeast. ▸ GoogleMaps does just that, which is why I mention it: the photos shown on that site are of S. Felice di Narco. (I've repeatedly tride to point it out to Google starting in Oct 2023, but as of Jul 2024, the error is still there.)
From most angles, the exterior of the abbey is a large graceless hulk of stone masonry; austere and fortresslike is one thing, but the complex has no particular shape, nothing to catch the eye, at least from no side I saw. The church itself is drowned in a mass of functional buildings, and despite the obvious huge cost of the edifice, no attempt seems to have been made to make it readable or attractive. The fault, however, appears to lie with the 18c rather than the 11c in which the church of S. Felice was built. [ 1 page, 4 photos ] |
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The interior of the church is another matter: austerity and sheer mass are tempered by good proportions and purposive design; and in addition to the monumental upper church, a crypt provides a more intimate, human space. The success of the interior is enhanced by dozens of carved capitals. [ 2 pages, 12 photos ] |
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The cloister is yet a third type of space altogether, designed to be the center of the monks' contemplative life, where the body is at rest and the mind is encouraged to remember examples of Christian piety and solid theology. [ 1 page, 1 plan, 2 photos (and 19 more at your choice) ] |
Most of the historical information on these pages about S. Felice is taken from
L'Umbria (in the series Italia Romanica)
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A page or image on this site is in the public domain ONLY if its URL has a total of one *asterisk. If the URL has two **asterisks, the item is copyright someone else, and used by permission or fair use. If the URL has none the item is © Bill Thayer. See my copyright page for details and contact information. |
Page updated: 13 Jul 24